Friday, February 10, 2017

Arrival in Guanajuato and First Impressions

I traveled by bus from Mexico City to Guanajuato yesterday. The bus terminal in Mexico City is huge, with a very clean and modern interior.  The various bus companies have well-staffed counters where you buy your tickets and it's clearly a very competitive market, the companies competing on comfort, schedule and price.  I arrived around 11 a.m. and had a ticket in my hand for an 11:40 bus in five minutes.

The bus was new and very comfortable, the seat and legroom comparable to domestic first class on a plane. It took about five hours to get to Guanajuato with four or five brief stops along the way. A smooth, comfortable ride for about $30.

When I arrived in Guanajuato, I hailed an Uber car and headed to the apartment in Guanajuato's historic center I booked on Airbnb about a week ago. Uber works really well in Mexico; about the same price as a cab, with nicer cars and drivers and without haggling for the correct fare.  The Uber driver got me as close as he could to the apartment and then I had to lug my luggage up steps on an alleyway a couple hundred yards to Plaza Mexiamora.

My apartment is right on the pleasant little plaza. I met my host Fredy there and he showed me around the place. It is a very old, rustic building but modernized and comfortable, though a bit spartan with just white walls, furniture and no decorations. Next door is a well-stocked little fiends where I can buy basic groceries and next door to that is a lavandaria where I can get my clothes washed.  There a a couple of small restaurants on the plaza serving breakfast and lunch. The Spanish language school I will begin attending on Monday is less than a two minute walk away.  I think the place will work out well, except for the minor annoyance of having to go up the stairs and onto the roof to light the hot water heater every time I want to take a shower. That might feel like more than a minor annoyance in a few days, but so far it hasn't been that big a deal.

After I got settled in, I went out for dinner at a really good restaurant at the Jardin de la Union, a pretty, tree-shaded park surrounded by nice hotels and restaurants. I enjoyed a really nice two-course seafood dinner with a bottle of wine for $40. I wandered around and people-watched for a little while in the park then headed back to the apartment to unpack. I've been living out of a suitcase for three weeks now and it's a nice change to be in one place for a while.

Today I walked around the historic center of the city, had a tasty falafel lunch and picked up a few basic supplies. I wound my way through narrow streets and alleyways, up and down hills, though plazas and parks.  The city bustled with people, including lots of university students.  I saw tourists along the way, but not many.

Guanajuato was founded in 1559 as silver mining town and generated a lot of wealth, at one time producing 40% of the worlds silver. Colonial buildings, churches, plazas, parks and brightly colored houses are all jammed onto steep slopes of the ravine in which the city is located.  The streets and alleys twist around hillsides and the main roads go through the hills in tunnel.  It is a really nice city for walking and has an overwhelming number of restaurants, cafes, food stands, markets and bars for quenching thirst or hunger.  I'm going to enjoy my two weeks here.

Tonight I am going to hear the symphony orchestra at the Teatro Juarez, an old ornate theatre just down the hill from "home". Tomorrow I'll explore more and post some more pictures.


Bus Terminal Norte in Mexico City

My Apartment in Guanajuato

Plaza Mexiamora from my apartment balcony 

Teatro Juarez, where I'll be attending the symphony ($5 ticket!)

Typical plaza in Guanajuato

University of Guanajuato, main building

Typical Guanajuato street